Highlights From The 2023 New York City Jewelry & Watch Show

The eighth edition of Palm Beach Group’s New York City Jewelry & Watch Show presented a mix of Georgian to signed mid-20^th-century jewelry and all periods in between. It was held from October 26 to October 29, 2023, at the Metropolitan Pavilion and featured over 90 exhibitors, including emerging designers and gemstone dealers.

But the antique and vintage pieces stole the spotlight of the show. Some highlights include:

Brooches

Brooches are back in a big way from all periods. The cyclical trend toward brooches started again on Instagram around eight years ago with the hashtag #bringbackthebrooch. It’s a category of jewelry often left in dealer’s safes or safety deposit boxes of private collectors—or reimagined into pendants.

When Hollywood actresses started wearing them on the red carpet in multiples and/or multiple ways, dealers began to pull them out for collectors and enthusiasts looking for a way to perk up their existing jewelry wardrobes. Then, the #manbrooch took center stage during awards seasons, and the once-forgotten jewel returned to the forefront in the cases and displays of the finest international dealers. Art Deco clips are a refreshing way to elevate a white shirt or the lapel of a jacket and have also become nearly as popular as brooches.

Moira Fine Jewelry’s Edwardian/Belle Epoque brooch features mine and rose cut diamonds.

Keyamour’s pair of Art Deco carved ruby and diamond platinum jewels, which separates into two clips, dates from around 1920. A scroll pattern is set with bright red carved leaf rubies and a mix of old European cut, marquise and bullet-shaped diamonds.

Art Deco Bracelets

A dazzling array of authentic, beautifully-designed 1920s through ‘30s line bracelets, or wider flexible bracelets boasting different cuts of diamond or accented by colored gemstones, were featured at the show. They are traditionally a hot ticket when you can find the originals, and can be worn singularly or piled up the arm. There are also necklaces that come apart into two bracelets, which can be worn one on each wrist.

Fred Leighton’s pair of Art Deco bracelets see diamonds and sapphires set into platinum.

Chandelier Earrings

Those from the Georgian and Early Victorian eras made for great rare finds at the show. They are on target with modern and contemporary trends toward longer, dressier earrings.

Fred Leighton’s pair of 19th-century earrings feature old mine cut diamonds set into silver topped gold.

Naturalism

Flowers, particularly in Art Nouveau styles, made a strong showing. The entire period has also come back to the fore as starter collectors learn more about the rebellious artistic movement.

Jacob’s Diamond & Estate Jewelry’s Marcus & Co Lily of the Valley Brooch, circa 1900s, combines the trends of brooches and naturalism.

Hays Worthington’s Lily of The Valley diamond and sapphire bloomed yellow gold bracelet runs along the same theme.

Gold Chains

From Georgian to early ‘70s pieces, yellow gold chains in all different lengths continue to be a draw for customers. They can be worn alone, graduated with rivière or diamond chokers, or as the chain for favorite charms and pendants.

The Spare Room’s Victorian ladies’ long guard watch chain is composed of a love knot link.

Signed Pieces

A plethora of signed pieces from the mid-twentieth century through the ‘70s were seen at the show. Prices continue to soar for the iconic styles.

Veronique Bamp’s Bulgari Tubogas bracelet, in 18K yellow gold, is set with two cabochon tourmalines surrounded with brilliant cut diamonds and dates from Bulgari, Italy, circa 1970.

Jacob’s Diamond & Estate Jewelry’s Tiffany Schlumberger peridot and ruby gold thistle clip brooch, circa 1960, is signed Tiffany Schlumberger.

Turquoise

When it comes to antique and vintage jewelry, turquoise is a stone that hit a height of popularity in the Victorian era and then again in the mid-20^th century. In Victorian pieces, it is traditionally pave set for earrings and often seen in a snake’s head.

Roy Rover’s turquoise Victorian earrings stunned at the show.

Courtville’s Victorian snake bracelet rears its turquoise head.